1 Day in St. Louis

December 29, 2021 bender.lori

A Holiday Side Trip

This was a day trip, kinda. For the holidays, we went with the In-Laws to visit family in Illinois. Stayed in the lovely town on Golconda, with some of the building dating back over 100 years. Since we had already driven over 12 hours, we decided to head over and spend a day in St Louis before heading home. The drive home from St. Louis is about the same as from Golconda, so why not? We spent less than 36 hours in St. Louis, arriving around 9:00 PM on Sunday night and leaving before 8:00 AM on Tuesday. We squeezed a lot in, in a short time.

Golconda

Golconda is a picturesque small town on the banks of the Ohio River in Pope County Illinois. Protected by hills and a levee, this small town has the Main Street USA and all of the small mom and pop joints that have disappeared in the larger towns. You can feel history here, not the history of past battles or of any other historical significance, but the history of the US and the small towns across the country. If you are driving though, stop by, and experience the atmosphere and the community that you just cannot find in larger cities.

St. Louis, Missouri

St Louis is a large city located on the banks of the Mississippi River in Missouri with rich historical significance. It also has several foods and food styles that can be traced back to St. Louis, such as St Louis style ribs and pizza, toasted ravioli, and gooey butter cake. You may think that is not that big of a deal, but how many cities have not 1, not 2, but multiple distinct foods that can be attributed to it? St Louis is also the home to the Cardinals (MLB) and the Blues (NHL). So along with the historical landmarks and national parks, museums, gardens, and the zoo (one of the few remaining free zoos in the US) there is so much to eat and do downtown and the surrounding areas that 1 day cannot possibly cover it all. So we hit some of the downtown highlights. Also, we want to try to stay within walking distance from the hotel, as I am already paying to park there.

Got in late on a Sunday night. Not much open so we ate at the hotel. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency St Louis (https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/missouri/hyatt-regency-st-louis-at-the-arch/stlrs?src=corp_lclb_gmb_seo_stlrs) in downtown St Louis and it is directly adjacent to the Gateway Arch. Beautiful hotel, great location.

Itinerary

Pharaoh’s Donuts
The Gateway Arch National Park
Baileys’ Range
City Museum
City Garden
Salt & Smoke
Glow at the Missouri Botanical Gardens

Pharoah’s Donuts (https://m.facebook.com/Pharaohsbakery/)

Had to make a quick trip to the store, so my son J and I walked to the Schnucks (https://nourish.schnucks.com/) in downtown St. Louis (conveniently 1 block from Pharaoh’s Donuts), so we picked up a dozen donuts for breakfast on Monday and Tuesday. On the walk from the hotel (right next to the Gateway Arch), past the Old Courthouse (site of the Famous Dred Scott Vs Sanford Case) and through Kiener Plaza Park. They have set up a small ice skating rink there.

Pharaoh’s donuts had a pretty wide selection of specialty donuts, not as many of the standard glazed and sprinkled. We ordered the any dozen, which includes any 13 (baker’s dozen) donuts, including specialty. That is a good deal. We got an apple fritter, cinnamon roll, apple and cookies & cream topped donuts, Boston cream pie, long johns, jelly filled, and plain glazed. They were very good and fresh. They were still good the next morning, but not as good. Fresh is best.

Gateway Arch National Park (https://www.nps.gov/jeff/index.htm)

I have visited this park multiple times, but not since they completed the renovation of the entrances, lobby, and museum.

The Gateway Arch National Park is located on the banks of the Mississippi River and include the Gateway Arch, surrounding park, and the Old Court House. The Old Courthouse (currently closed for renovations) is the location where Abraham Lincoln represented Dred Scott in the now famous Dred Scott vs. Sandford case that we all learn about in school. The Arch is open and includes a museum, movie, and a tram ride up the inside of the arch to the top. The museum is free admittance, everything else has a cost.

Before purchasing ticket for the tram, please note that it is not ADA accessible. Also, if you have a fear of heights or small spaces think about it. There is a life size tram to test out and sit in next to the ticket counter. Sit in it. It is actual size. If you are not able to go to the top because of ADA or will not be able to handle the tram, fear not, they have created a replica section of the top of the arch, complete with video screens for the view. No stress, no stairs, no heights, and no enclosed spaces, but you can still get a sense of what it is like at the top. This was added as part of the renovation (I think). Its been several years since I was here last and the renovations were under construction.

For those who wish to travel to the top, they say five people fit in the tram car… I am happy we are a family of four. There are two trams, one in the north leg and one in the south leg of the arch. Interesting to note that they were installed several years after the opening of the arch. Your ticket has a timed window for you ascension to the top. After descending the ramp, your tour guide takes you through an introduction and history area. Then you go to the loading area. While you wait, more information is projected on to the tram doors. Each door is getting the same information, but not in the same order. It appears they have taken a cue from a certain magical family destination to break up the wait and entertain in the queue. Once you reach the top, there are stairs to get to the viewing area. Then you reverse the process.

At the top, there are windows on both sides, so you can see across the Mississippi, or you can see downtown St. Louis. Due to COVID, you only have access to half of the top and the amount of time you can spend up there is limited. You have until the trams bring up the next group of people. The views are amazing. You can clearly see the baseball stadium and the football stadium. Not much to see really across the river.

After we got back from the top we visited the museum. It starts with the settlement of the area, and goes through the history, an era at a time.

The last section is the history of the Arch. It starts with the competition for the design, to the selection, construction, and the addition of the trams. The exhibit shows some of the top contenders as well as the winning design. Remember the legs are hollow, the outside structure holds everything up. Truly amazing to think about how it was constructed.

Baileys’ Range (https://www.baileysrange.com/)

After we dropped our purchases from the Arch gift shop back at our room, we walked to Baileys’ Range for lunch. My boys had custom burgers with shakes. T’s burger had fresh jalapenos. I had the PB&J Burger with arugula pesto, beef, tomato jam, goat cheese and arugula. The pesto and the goat cheese melded together. The tomato jam was just the right amount of sweet. Very good burger. Husband ordered the Ozark with beef, mushrooms, grilled onions and black peppered goat cheese. He said it needed some type of sauce under the patty for moisture and to help keep the burger together. If you are looking for non-messy burgers this is not the place for you. We ordered one large fries for the table. They have a range of dipping sauces to get with the fries. Definitely worth coming back to.

The City Museum (https://www.citymuseum.org/)

About half a mile from Bailey’s is the City Museum. The City Museum is the coolest, indoor/outdoor play ground you and your inner child will visit. And if you have children or grandchildren this is a must when visiting the City. Climbing and crawling are essential. They sell knee pads in the gift shop for a reason. I keep telling myself to buy some or bring some; maybe next time. The City Museum is an old shoe factory and is the result of the mad genius of one man. There are some museum like exhibits on the inside of building architectural embellishments, but unlike most museums you can touch. There are four floors and the roof of tunnels, slides, and climbing/crawling madness with more floors yet to expand into. Seriously, do the pictures below look like any “museum” you have ever been to?

During the winter months, the roof in closed, but I highly recommend coming here multiple times. Every time we come we find something new. Part of that is expansion and part of that is exploration. I would like to point out, that they do not print or make maps available. And to the left of the stairs? That is the first slide. There is a 10 story tall slide and a 5 tall story slide hidden in this building. The only map I have found is painted as a mural somewhere on the third floor. They do not hand out maps. The ball pit on the outside is not currently installed, instead they have made a festive tree.

See that silvery stuff hanging from the ceiling? There are crawl spaces in that. The crawlspaces are connected through the floors, ceiling and walls. Your children will fit through spaces you may not.

Everywhere you look, you can find access spots. Take your children there, everyone will sleep good that night. It is a good thing there are food and snack locations, as well as several bars; it could take a while to find your kids. I so regret not having a Go-Pro; I would have strapped that to one of the kids.

The “museum” part, includes architectural building facades. Bank vault doors. It is truly an amazing space. They are not building structures with this type of detail and I am happy that these pieces of beautifully crafted workmanship are being preserved.

City Garden

(https://www.stlouis-mo.gov/parks/parks/browse-parks/view-park.cfm?parkID=117&parkName=Citygarden)

After hours of fun at the City Museum, we found the City Garden (a sculpture park) on the walk back. As we walked back to the hotel, we noticed two sculptures on a hill. The horse with a star and the figure with the top hat. To me the figure in the top hat is reminiscent of the “Blair Witch Project”. We thought it was maybe a representation of Abe Lincoln. According to the artist, it is a scarecrow. The installation in a treed area means I will stick with creepy figure from “Blair Witch”. I think my favorite is the zipper, it wasn’t apparent to me immediately what it was until I saw it from a different angle. This little sculpture park with winding paths is unexpected in a downtown city, but very cool.

Salt + Smoke (https://saltandsmokebbq.com/)

We have tickets for a late entry into the holiday lights at the botanical gardens, so we walked to dinner. Salt + Smoke is a BBQ joint next to Busch Stadium. My Husband and children have previously been here, but this is my first time. We started with the pimento cheese toasted ravioli. It was served with what I think was a cross between Alabama White BBQ sauce and Ranch. The sauce was delicious. I did not like the ravioli as much as J and Husband did. T ordered wing & rib combo plate, ate everything but the slaw. Too vinegary for him. Husband had the pulled chicken and rib combo plate. J had the BLT. The food was overall delicious and there are many more things I would like to try on the menu. Unfortunately for me, the commute is a little long.

I had the pulled chicken plate with creamed corn and cracker mac & cheese. The chicken was amazing. Juicy, did not need any sauce. I should have tried the sauces they had at the table. My bad. Will have to go back and try again. The plate came with a bacon cheddar pop over. I was not that impressed with the pop over; did not get a lot of bacon or cheese flavor. Now the creamed corn; that was amazing. I have no idea what was in it, but it was definitely not my Mamaw’s creamed corn. There was a smoked element and maybe paprika? I would eat that with everything.

We then walked backed to the hotel to get the car and go to the botanical gardens.

Glow at the Missouri Botanical Gardens (https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/)

This will be my third botanical garden this year and in three different states. I wasn’t sure if it was going to be like the San Antonio Botanical Garden Lightscape or more like the traditional holiday lights that are normally at the zoos. The main building is under construction, so you enter from a different entrance than normal and the gift shop is smaller than before. When they are done with construction it will be amazing. There is a set path way to walk, and not all of the garden is available during the night lights. There are also concession stands throughout the event. The lights start upon entering the parking lot.

We are in the last ticket time slot for the night, so the crowds should be lessened. After the first concession stand it starts with a giant tree that changes colors. Then, a field of light sabers. I don’t think Star Wars was intended, but that is what I see.

Next was the reflection pond area with a smores concession stand. The lights in this entire area, all along the reflection ponds, were synchronized to the music.

The next two areas were also synced to music. It made me think this is one of the ways for the hearing impaired to be able to experience sound.

Into the light tunnel. There was a line, as people were taking pictures in the tunnel.

Just a stroll though the lights. Some of the flowers are still in bloom.

There was a beautiful Nutcracker inspired show on the Shaw House (Original owner of property and gardens). You could see the lights on the inside as well.

Some of these lights make it look like the trees are on fire.

We continue down the pathway.

Through the hedge maze.

Almost done.

I would say Glow was very similar to Laghtscape, but Lightscape had more lasers and the live fire as part of the display. Both were very cool. I wish it had gone through the Japanese Garden section. They could have done amazing laser show there. Back to the Hotel. We have a nice 12+ hour drive home tomorrow.